Last weekend, as we jiggled the toiled handled again (and again and again) to make it stop running, we felt it might be time to replace the toilet. Got in the car, went to the Big Box Hardware Store, and did a Price Check. Ouch. We quickly realized a good new toilet is an investment in time, money, and labor.
Regroup.
We had two approaches: For a few dollars, we could replace the tank parts – an easy DIY project. On the other hand, we could purchase a new toilet for around $125 (low-end model) – $400 (better model with more features). Although a new toilet adds cheer and cleanliness to the bathroom, it’s a big job. Toilets are heavy, awkward and what do you do with the old one? (Hint: It’s hard to find a community that welcomes planters made from old toilets).
Checklist: When do you need to replace a toilet?
– When the porcelain is cracked or broken (Hint: small cracks can leak large amounts of water)
– When you want to upgrade a better model/style (one piece vs. two piece unit, elongated bowl, quieter flush mechanisms, )
– When the interior is scratched and difficult to clean
– If the old toilet design is prone to creating clogs (which can be true of some low-end models)
After reviewing the reasons for toilet replacement, we opted for the “repair” route. Our repair was simple – it only required opening the tank and swapping the old parts for new.
Had we needed to actually “lift” the toilet to either re-seat it or replace the wax ring gasket underneath, we would’ve given the extra step of purchasing a new toilet further consideration. As it stands, we took the easy route and we’re happy with our success.
Water You Waiting For? If your toilet wobbles when you sit upon it, leaks, has a scratched bowl that is difficult to clean, or frequently clogs, it may be time to consider a replacement. Call Ray today and seek his thoughts on whether a new toilet is in your future. (513) 396-5300, or Contact us. We always come highly recommended and have earned an A+ rating from the Better Business Bureau for our expert quality of service. .
Our soggy winter has morphed into a soggy spring. Our backyard is soup. In Cincinnati, this means one thing: wet basements. For readers with sump pumps (or readers who would like one), a quick FAQ on sump pumps seems like a good read.
Q: What is a sump pump?
A: Many people think the “sump pump” is a device, but actually they are two things. A sump is a pit in which liquid collects. The pump is the device used to pump the liquid out of the sump. Typically, sumps are connected to drain tile that drains the footings of one’s house, generally under the entire basement.
There are 2 types of sump pumps: pedestal and submersible pumps
According to the North Dakota Extension Agency, “The pedestal pump has the motor on top of the pedestal and the pump at the base, which sits on the bottom of the sump. The motor is not meant to get wet. The pump is turned on and off by a ball float. One advantage of this type of pump is that the on/off switch is visible so the action of the ball float can be easily seen.
Submersible pumps are designed to be submerged in water and sit on the bottom of the sump. The on/off switch is attached to the pump and can be either a ball float connected to an internal pressure switch or a sealed, adjustable, mercury-activated floating switch.”
Both types of pumps should have a check valve on the water outlet pipe so water doesn’t flow back in the sump when the pump is not running.
Q: I don’t have a sump pump, but my basement leaks during heavy rains. Do I need a sump pump?
A: If the water flows to the floor drain, then backs up or drains slowly, a sump pump may solve your wet basement problems. The experts at the North Dakota Extension Agency suggest “small pumps, sometimes referred to as “skimmer” pumps, are designed to sit on a flat surface and pump when water on the floor is only 1/4 to 1/2 inch deep. They can often be used with….a 50-foot garden hose run out through a basement window. [The hose] will usually carry the water far enough away from the house. You can remove more water by taking the cover off the floor drain and placing the pump in the drain bowl—these pumps are usually small enough to fit in the bowl. In emergencies where electric service is off, these pumps can be powered by a small gasoline generator.”
A Quick Sump Pump Inspection is Time Well Spent
If your pump has been in place for more than a year (or loud, periodic thumping noises are coming out of the basement and it’s not the children), we recommend a quick visual inspection:
- First, unplug the sump pump to eliminate the risk of electric shock.
- Remove the pump cover, if possible. Note: if you cannot remove the cover, call a plumber.
- Look into the sump pit (use a flashlight for a better view). If the water in the pit has an oily appearance, it’s possible the pump is leaking coolant. Contact a reputable plumber immediately.
- Remove any foreign objects or debris that may have accumulated in the sump pit.
- Examine the pump float and make sure it moves freely
- Test the pump by plugging it back in and slowly pouring water into the pit until the float rises and the pump kicks on. Listen to the motor – is it running smoothly? It should not race, sputter or be overly noisy. Observe the pump until the excess water is removed from the pit.
Water You Waiting For? If you suspect your sump pump may need an official inspection or replacement, call Ray at Allied Reddi-Rooter before the spring thaw (and eventually, the spring rains).. He’ll listen, provide a free estimate, and has a trained staff that can assist on your schedule. Call today: 513-396-5300, or Contact us. We always come highly recommended and have earned an A+ rating from the Better Business Bureau for our expert quality of service.
Two years ago, we wrote a blog on tank vs. tankless water heaters – the local adoption rate of tankless was low at the time. Since then, the numbers of installations has risen slowly. Seemingly, Cincinnatians like the tradition of a tank water heater. Changing an American paradigm is tough.
What is a Tankless Water Heater?
According to the Department of Energy, “Tankless water heaters, also known as demand-type or instant water heaters, provide hot water only as it is needed.” They are considered to be more efficient than traditional tank water heaters because “they don’t produce the standby energy losses associated with storage water heaters.”
How Do Tankless Waters Work?
When a hot water is turned on, cold water is piped directly in to the tankless water heating unit. There, the cold water is heated (with either an electric element or a gas burner, depending on you situation). The “instant heating” function enables the homeowner to receive a constant supply of hot water.
Can a Tankless Heater Provide a Steady Flow of Hot Water?
It depends. As a rule, gas-operated tankless units have a higher flow rate than electric versions. Generally speaking, however, tankless water heaters provide hot water at a rate of 2–5 gallons per minute.
The Department of Energy notes that “sometimes, even the largest, gas-fired model cannot supply enough hot water for simultaneous, multiple uses in large households. For example, taking a shower and running the dishwasher at the same time can stretch a tankless water heater to its limit. To overcome this problem, you can install two or more tankless water heaters, connected in parallel for simultaneous demands of hot water. You can also install separate tankless water heaters for appliances — such as a clothes washer or dishwater — that use a lot of hot water in your home.”
Is There More Than One Way to Use A Tankless Water Heater?
Good question! Yes, using a tankless/on-demand water heater as a ‘booster’ water heater is increasingly popular. Common uses include:
· Remote bathrooms (e.g., in the man-cave) or hot tubs
· Booster for hot water-using appliances
· Booster for a solar water heating system
How Do I Know if I Need A Tankless Water Heater?
If your daily hot water usage is less than 45 gallons of hot water daily, a tankless water heater can be as much as 34% more energy efficient than a tank water heater.
If your daily hot water usage is more than 45 gallons a day (that is any household with 1or more teenagers), the efficiency rate for tankless heaters is significantly lower. To compensate, install multiple tankless heaters (one for each hot water application
Are Tankless Water Heaters Expensive To Install & Run?
Although the initial cost of a tankless water heater may be higher, they may also have a longer life span – upwards of 20 years (vs. 8-15 for a tank model). Also, the reduced energy costs associated with tankless heaters helps reduce the overall cost.
Operational costs vary – refer to the manufacturer’s information for details
Water You Waiting For? If your water heater is getting on in years and you’d like to free up some space in your utility area, tankless may be an option worth looking into (especially if you are replacing a gas water heater). Call Ray to learn his thoughts on the tank-vs-tankless conversation. (513) 396-5300, or Contact us. We always come highly recommended and have earned an A+ rating from the Better Business Bureau for our expert quality of service.
Every home or business owner with a plumbing problem eventually arrives at the age-old question: Which is best…copper or one of the plastics (PVC or CPVC)?
According to selfhelpandmore.com, both copper and plastic water pipes have advantages:
Both types of materials are:
• Relatively non-toxic and, most importantly, NOT made of lead
• Corrosion-resistant
• Easy to work with, although copper installations require soldering skills while PVC only requires gluing skills
• Highly durable
• Recyclable, which minimizes environmental impacts
What’s the difference between copper, PVC and CPVC?
• Copper is a naturally-occurring metal that is mined from deep within the earth (THANKS, Made in America!). Copper piping is available in different grades; the better the grade of copper, the more expensive and long-lasting it is. For a quick overview on the different grades of copper and their respective uses, this YouTube video may be helpful: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-iz5ezxQ9pA
• CPVC is chlorinated polyvinyl chloride – it is a polymer (a.k.a. plastic) and has greater heat resistance and better impact strength than conventional PVC. CPVC is rated for use on both hot and cold water lines.
• PVC is similar to CPVC, but should only be installed on cold water lines. PVC is not rated for usage as a hot water pipe (additional information is below).
• PVC and CPVC are not “the same thing” and should not be in direct contact with each other. The outside diameter of PVC differs from PVC, which requires different fittings and cements.
Consider Your Application When Choosing Copper or Plastic Pipe
Installation/health concerns — According to Lowes.com, one of the most common consumer concerns with PVC/CPVC are the potential health effects of the glues and the polyvinyl chloride composition of the pipe. But “The Ann Arbor, Mich.-based National Sanitation Foundation (NSF), periodically checks U.S.-manufactured pipe for any objectionable trace chemicals that could get into the drinking water. If there are no trace chemicals, the pipe is certified by NSF.”
Old house cast iron repair jobs — For homeowners faced with repairing vintage cast iron pipes, CPVC is commonly chosen over copper pipe. Why? Because unlike copper, plastic pipe will not corrode when it is in contact with iron pipe. PVC/CPVC is an inexpensive solution to this situation.
How does a Consumer Choose Between Copper or CPVC or PVC?
At the simplest level, the choice depends on the look desired and available budget — copper piping is a classic traditional look and bespeaks the fineskills of a highly trained plumbing professional and knowledgeable consumer. Copper is solid. It lasts for years. In new home construction or higher-end bathroom remodels, copper is a good choice. Copper is also a reliable option for those living in extreme temperatures or in hard water situations.
CPVC and PVC are good choices for DIY repairs or when budget is a major constraint. CPVC and PVC are commonly used in rental properties, hotels, public facilities — areas where usage is high and repairs are frequently needed. It’s important to note that PVC is unreliable as a hot water pipe — it will begin to degrade at hot water temperatures in excess of 140 degrees Farenheit.
Water You Waiting For?
For advice on whether copper, PVC or CPVC pipe is suitable for your plumbing needs (including a whole house repipe, new construction or water line repair), call, or Contact Ray at Allied Reddi-Rooter (513-396-5300). Since 1950, Ray and his team have been leading Cincinnati plumbers in keeping residential and commercial water flowing. Call today! We always come highly recommended and have earned an A+ rating from the Better Business Bureau for our expert quality of service.
Now that we’re well into wet winter weather, it’s a good time to revisit a few sump pump maintenance tips. A happy sump will pump and pump, keeping your basement dry and fresh.
Watch this 3-minute sump maintenance video from Central Insurance Company: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rszr08KDEjs.Insurance companies have real interest in preventing flood prevention/water damage.
Locate the Pump’s Outside Discharge Hose and Cleanout Cap. Look along your home or business exterior wall for the point where the discharge hose exits the foundation. Keep the area clear of debris, especially if it’s below grade. Freezes can happen quickly, causing burst pipes.
Anti-Freeze is a No-No. Never use chemicals in the sump crock and anti-freeze in particular should be avoided at all costs. It’s a tasty, deadly temptation for house pets and small children.
Always leave the pump plugged in. That’s the best way to ensure the pump runs when it needs to.
Additional Pump Maintenance Tips
• Fill the sump crock with water until the pump float rises and activates the pump.
• Install a sewer backflow prevention valve if sewage backup is a concern for you.
• Ensure all pump discharge water flows away from your home’s foundation.
• Install a battery backup to keep your sump working in the event of a winter weather-related power failure.
Water You Waiting For? If you are experiencing trouble with your sump pump, the experts at Allied Reddi-Rooter can either repair or replace your pump. Call, or Contact Ray today for a free estimate. 513-396-5300. We always come highly recommended and have earned an A+ rating from the Better Business Bureau for our expert quality of service.
When fall and winter dampness creeps into our basement area, I’m reminded of a scent forever etched in my childhood memories — the cool, mildew-y smell of my grandmother’s basement. To 10-year-old me, that smell meant a treasure trove of 1930’s Americana; an old, unlockable antique safe large enough to hold a small child; a cement floor that was crumbling under years of constant dampness, and a wringer washer she used well into the 1980’s.
Grown-up me wonders why none of grandma’s 7 children ever took the time to install a sump pump and make her dreary basement a dry and pleasant laundry area.
How does a sump pump work?
According to HowItWorks.com, “a sump pump usually stands in a sump pit — a hole with a gravel base about 2 feet (60 centimeters) deep and 18 inches (45 centimeters) wide — dug in the lowest part of your basement or crawlspace. As the pit fills with water, the pump turns on [and] moves the water out of the pit…away from your home to a spot where the water can drain away from [the] foundation.”
What are the downsides to a sump pump?
Sump pumps for home use require electricity, so in the event of an extended power outage, you may be at risk for water in the basement. Additionally, because the pump is in a wet area, a ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) is a must-have.
How will a sump pump affect my basement décor?
Given the choice of a damp (or flooded basement) or a small sump pump, it seems worthwhile to go with the sump. HowItWorks.com notes that “there are two primary sump pump designs, both of which are about 2 1/2 to 3 feet (76.2 to 91 centimeters) high. A submersible pump rests in the water,… in a waterproof housing, with the pump itself at the bottom and the outlet pipe near the top. A flat screen or grate covers the bottom of the pump to keep out debris. When the pump turns on, water is sucked up through the grate and routed into the pipes and out of your home.
The other common type of sump pump is the pedestal pump. Pedestal pumps look something like a long stick with a fat head. The pedestal keeps the pump out of the pit, away from the water even when the pit is full. An inlet pipe reaches down into the bottom of the pit to draw the water out. Becaue the motor and pump are out of the water, pedestal pumps are usually louder — but less expensive — than submersible pumps.”
A reputable plumber can help you determine which type of pump best suits your needs, budget and wet basement situation. The determining factors may include:
• Manual or automatic: Manually operated sump pumps are available but automatic pumps are hard to beat for convenience.
• Size: Sump pumps are commonly one-quarter to one-third horsepower. The size of the motor should be based on the amount of water you need to mitigate.
• Head pressure: Head pressure is the height a pump can raise water; your pump must be able to lift water out of the sump pit and up to the outlet pipe.
• Cord length: Pumps need to be plugged into a ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) outlet, without the use of an extension cord.
• Voltage: Standard 110-volt circuits for home use; 220 volt models are available for industrial applications.
Water You Waiting For?
If you’re considering sprucing up your basement (or your grandma’s), Allied Reddi-Rooter has extensive experience in sizing, installing, and maintaining sump pumps. Call, or Contact Ray today for a free quote and over-the-phone analysis of your needs (residential or commercial). Coupons. (513) 396-5300. We always come highly recommended and have earned an A+ rating from the Better Business Bureau for our expert quality of service.
I learned last week that it’s our turn to host Thanksgiving for the in-laws, all 35-50 of them. My first vision: that scene in The Shawshank Redemption when Andy busts open the sewer pipe and sewage explodes into his face. When the family arrives, it’s hard to tell what might get flushed down the toilet. Some years, it’s worse than others.
Kids + Vintage Plumbing +Toilet Paper = Bad News
In our first review of our pre-party plumbing situation, we noted two issues – our main floor toilet has a wimpy flush, with water rising, rising, rising, then leaving s-l-o-w-l-y, ending with the dreaded gurgle as the last of the water goes down the hole. The flushing experience is followed by an audible sigh of relief as an overflow crisis is narrowly averted.
With a house full of Other People’s Little Kids this holiday season, we knew it was time to address our situation.
Here’s the 411. Our DIY repair approach:
· Flush again to clear out the TP floaters.
· Flush again, just to be sure.
· When safe, use the plunger to attack the invisible ‘soft clog’.
· Flush again. Maybe one more after that.
· Leave the area and don’t tell anyone there’s an issue
· Repeat for 2-3 months until the rest of the family starts to notice and someone (anyone) finally speaks up.
Upon plunging/flushing the toilet about 1800 times (what’s the definition of crazy??), we noticed another symptom: The toilet handle was popping up prematurely in the refill cycle. When tested (by holding the handle down until the bowl refilled completely), we gave our toilet further thought. The tank mechanism is about 10-15 years old and showing signs of wear. The fix: a trip to the hardware store for a replacement kit. Problem solved.
Toilet Wear & Tear
In busy homes, toilets take a lot of abuse. At about the same time as our main floor toilet started acting up, our upstairs toilet handle (plastic) cracked. It didn’t break apart, it just cracked and remained functional. The family didn’t really care (even cracked, it remained a 1-flush toilet, so we loved it even more). It looked bad for company, though. The fix: Another trip to the hardware store for a replacement part.
Best Party Planning Skill – Household Plumbing Awareness
In advance of holiday celebrations, take a quick look at your facilities and make sure they are up to snuff. Trust us – nothing ruins a party faster than a toilet clog and sewage backing up through the basement drain. Make repairs before your friends and family arrive and keep your social standing in good order.
Water You Waiting For? At Allied Reddi-Rooter, we’re on hand 24/7 to resolve your bathroom plumbing issues, planned or in an emergency. Give Ray a call, or Contact today for a free quote. 513-396-5300. We always come highly recommended and have earned an A+ rating from the Better Business Bureau for our expert quality of service.
At Allied Reddi-Rooter, November is a month that gives us pause. In honor of Veterans Day, Friday, November 11, we recognize, remember, and pray for the American men and women who fought — and for those who continue to fight — so that we may enjoy our American freedom. Some gave a little and some gave everything so that we might live in peace in this great nation.
American Flags and Red Poppies – Icons of Our Fight for Freedom
Remember those tiny red paper poppies in the lapel of every VFW man you ever met in the 1970s and ’80s? The legend of the poppy began with this famous poem, by Canadian John McCrae (1872 — 1918). During WW1, McCrae served as Major, military doctor and second-in-command of the 1st Brigade Canadian Field Artillery. The field guns of his brigade’s batteries were in position on the west bank of the Ypres-Yser canal, just to the north of Ypres. The brigade had arrived there in the early hours of April 23. Legend has it that McCrae drafted this poem on the evening of May 2, 1915, in the second week of fighting during the Second Battle of Ypres. The poem was originally published in Punch magazine on December 8, 1915.
In Flanders fields the poppies blow
Between the crosses, row on row,
That mark our place; and in the sky
The larks, still bravely singing, fly
Scarce heard amid the guns below.
We are the Dead. Short days ago
We lived, felt dawn, saw sunset glow,
Loved and were loved, and now we lie
In Flanders fields.
Take up our quarrel with the foe:
To you from failing hands we throw
The torch; be yours to hold it high.
If ye break faith with us who die
We shall not sleep, though poppies grow
In Flanders fields.
Where is Flanders Field?
The Flanders Field American Cemetery and Memorial is a World War I cemetery in the town of Waregem, Belgium. 411 American servicemen are buried or commemorated there.
A Free American Flag for You, From Allied Reddi-Rooter
During the month of November, mention this promotion (and where you saw it) when you call Allied Reddi-Rooter for service. Upon completion and payment for service, you will receive a top-quality 3×5 embroidered nylon American flag (retail value of $29.99). Call or Contact the team at Allied Reddi-Rooter. We always come highly recommended and have earned an A+ rating from the Better Business Bureau for our expert quality of service.
If you’ve got an interest in plumbing, you’ve got a friend in Allied. In the Greater Cincinnati Area, the shortage of people with hands for pipefitting, a head for math, and a problem-solving, people-friendly personality is real. It hits home. It’s right here in our offices on Hunter Ave in Norwood.
If you believe in the adage that “the plumber protects the health of the nation,” and enjoy the daily challenges in keeping household and small business plumbing systems in good working order, we invite you to consider a career with Allied Reddi-Rooter. It’s a dirty, hands-on jo, but it’s incredibly rewarding and you’ll meet the most interesting people. Masterful customer service skills, a cheerful outlook, relationship building and, of course, analytical and hands-on engineering skills are required. A good understanding of math (including angles), hand tools, and piping strategies is a must.
Salary Scale – It Varies but It’s Good
According to the Bureau of Labor Statistics, the 2013 median salary for a plumber was about $50,180. At the high-end, highly skilled and successful plumbers running their own shop can earn about $86,120; entry level positions earn about $29,590 annually. Plumbing is a career that still uses the apprentice model; apprentices typically earn about half the wages of a fully trained plumber.
How Do I Become A Plumber?
Time, patience, trade school course work, study and hands-on training are the formula for becoming a skilled plumber. US News & World Report notes that “Traditionally, a hopeful plumber begins a four- or five-year apprenticeship program to receive technical education and complete the required hours of on-the-job training under a licensed professional. Plumbers who have successfully completed their apprenticeship are known as journeymen.”
Typically, an apprentice plumber undergoes about 250 hours of course work, math, applied physics and chemistry. About 2,000 hours of paid, practical training alongside an experienced plumber is also required. Last but not least, safety training is crucial in this field because injuries are common in this line of work (plumbing is considered to be part of the construction industry). To work independently, one or more licenses are required.
Water You Waiting For? A career as a plumber is a noble one. And, once you become a plumber, you’ll never have to call one again (think of the savings!). If you are interested in working with an A-team of skilled, professional plumbers, talk with Ray today. 513-396-5300.
Call or Contact the team at Allied Reddi-Rooter.
We always come highly recommended and have earned an A+ rating from the Better Business Bureau for our expert quality of service.
For those who love the idea of fancy blue (or green) water in the toilet bowl, consider this: over time, the cleaning chemicals in drop-in tank tablets can cause your toilet gaskets to slowly rot. While that colored water looks pretty in the toilet bowl, it can do a number on your budget if it’s slowly leaking into your floor.
Are Drop-In Tablets Really That Bad?
Yes, they are. With long-term use, the bleach and other chemicals in the tablets will damage the flush valve, flapper, plastic and rubber parts (e.g., gaskets and washers). A few notes:
• Toilets that are seldom flushed (such as in a guest room or basement) are the worst candidates for drop-in tablets. Without flushing, the tank water becomes chemical-laden, which eats away the rubber and plastic in your toilet parts.
• Review the manufacturer’s warning label on a new toilet tank. The label typically indicates that “damage caused by in-tank tablets will not be covered under product warranties. These products can seriously corrode the fittings in the tank. This damage can cause leakage and property damage.”
• When the tablets become partially dissolved, they can float into the flushing mechanism and restrict water flow, which can lead to flushing problems.
What’s the Best Way to Clean a Toilet?
The old-fashioned way – put on the big yellow plastic gloves, cover yourself in plastic and grab a scrub brush. Haha, just kidding (except about the gloves). Plumbers are generally pro-chemicals (THANKS, DuPont!) when heavy cleaning is required. Below is a list of the five best toilet cleaners, according to About.com. Our personal favorite is #5.
1 Best Disposable Toilet Cleaner: Clorox Toilet Wand
• Easy to use
• Reaches under the rim
• Disposable pads are pre-loaded with cleaner
• NOTE: Do not flush the pads or detachable heads.
2 Best Liquid Toilet Cleaner: Lysol Power Toilet Bowl Cleaner
• Gel formula provides good coverage
• Gel “stickiness” doesn’t run off when applied under the rim
• Heavy duty cleaning power
3 Best Natural Toilet Cleaner: Seventh Generation Natural Toilet Cleaner
• Environmentally friendly
4 Best Maintenance Toilet Cleaner: Scrubbing Bubbles Toilet Cleaning Gel
• Easy to use gel “stamps”
• Stamps dissolve over a period of about 5-7 days, depending on the number of flushes
• Prevents toilet residue buildup
5 Best Last Chance Toilet Cleaner: Lime-A-Way Toilet Bowl Cleaner
• Most powerful – do not let this cleaner remain on your toilet (or tub/shower) porcelain for more than 2 minutes (it will erode the glaze)
• Use in a well-ventilated area; avoid breathing in the fumes
• Caustic
• Awesome for getting the J-O-B done
Water You Waiting For? If you are having toilet troubles – leaks, slow flushes or clogs, Allied Reddi-Rooter is available to assist 24/7. Ray’s team will have your water flowing in a jiffy. Call or Contact for a free quote: (513) 396-5300. We always come highly recommended and have earned an A+ rating from the Better Business Bureau for our expert quality of service.